Goodbye Green Tones: How I Correct Hair with Framcolor Pure Pigment Plus
- Alessio Bianconi
- Jul 15
- 3 min read
One of the problems I see walk into the salon most often is an unwanted green cast: it happens after prolonged chlorine exposure, after an over-ashy toner on a warm base, or simply when the color "shifts" in an unexpected direction. It's not tied to a specific level: it can show up on light bases just as easily as on darker ones. It's a flaw that really bothers the client, because it's visible to the naked eye and kills the shine of the color.
In the video I filmed in the salon, I show the procedure I use to fix it, working with Framesi's Framcolor Pure Pigment Plus.
Why green gets neutralized (and doesn't just "wash out")
Color works through opposites: on the color wheel, the complementary of green is red. That means no anti-brass shampoo or glossing treatment will fix the problem at the root: you need to deposit the right amount of warm/coppery pigment to chemically balance the starting cast. It's color theory in practice, not a trick.
Why I specifically use Pure Pigment Plus
For this kind of targeted correction I choose Pure Pigment Plus because:
these are ready-to-use direct pigments, developer-free: no risk of lifting the hair further or stressing hair that's already porous or compromised;
the acid pH seals the cuticle instead of opening it, so the service corrects the color while also leaving the hair more compact and glossy;
the shades are intermixable (and can be diluted with clear/00 when you need to dial down intensity), so I can build the exact correction for each client instead of relying on one standard formula.
The procedure, step by step
In the video I start from a strand that's completely green, and the correction happens in two distinct passes, not a single formula:
Diagnosis: I assess how strong the green cast is and how porous the hair is.
First pass – /34 (Copper Gold): I apply this shade because copper is the direct complementary of green on the color wheel. This is the pigment that does the actual "chemical" work, neutralizing the cool cast visible on the strand.
Mid-service rinse: I rinse thoroughly before moving on, so I can start clean with the second pigment and visually assess how much of the green has already been neutralized.
Second pass – /64 (Warm Brown): once the green has been knocked out, I use this shade to warm up and even out the final result, taking the strand to a full, rich warmth instead of leaving it looking like a "corrective" in-between stage.
Final rinse: no shampoo, so I don't undo the work I just did.
Styling check: you only really see the true result once it's blow-dried, which is why styling is part of the final diagnosis, not just the finishing touch.
The result
The green cast disappears, leaving a warm, glossy, even color from root to tip, without ever touching the hair with an oxidant. This is exactly the kind of precise, surgical correction I love doing: not restarting the color from scratch, but fixing exactly what isn't working.
If you have a client with a similar issue and want help building the right formula, feel free to reach out — happy to talk it through.
Alessio Bianconi – Framesi International Master Educator, specializing in curls, vivid colors and blondes.
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